How to check used car history records by the VIN number
I recommend to check a used car's history records as a first step before buying a car.
The used car history report can't give you a 100-percent guarantee that the car is perfect, but when you about to spend thousands of dollars on a used car, it is worth to pay for a history report that could give you some information about the car's past. Here are few examples of the information you may find in a used car history report:
The car was totaled in an accident/salvaged
Flood damage
Odometer rollbacks
Lemon histories
Junked Titles
State emissions inspection results
Lien activity, and/or
Vehicle use (taxi, rental, lease, etc.)
If available, service and repair history
Look at the picture I made at a collision repair shop yard. Why do you think they keep that rear piece of the car? Because when they find the same vehicle with rear-end damage, they will just weld two pieces together into one car, paint it nicely and sell it through the auction somewhere in a different state or province. Soon it may appear in a used car dealer lot as "Immaculate condition with low mileage" vehicle. The car may look clean and shiny, but if you check the car history report, you may find that the vehicle was salvaged.
Another example: I received a message from the person who bought privately a "low mileage" car. He even had it inspected by a dealer and had been told that the car is OK. Few days later, he checked the used car history report and found out that previous reported mileage was a lot higher - very unfortunate situation.
By the way, when you bring a used car to a mechanic or a dealer for an inspection, have a look at items covered in the inspection checklist - usually it does not include things like previous accident check or odometer fraud check.
For these reasons, when buying a used car, it is worth to check the used car history as a first step and then have a car inspected by a mechanic of your choice.
How it works and how much it costs?
VIN number
All you need to order a history report is the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) of the car you are going to buy. You can find this number in the vehicle title or under the car windshield (look at the picture). For a used car history reports we have partnered with CARFAX®. A single Vehicle History Report™ at CARFAX will cost you $34.99 (US dollars). You can order 5 reports for $44.99.
You can pay them online; they accept VISA, MasterCard, and American Express. CARFAX® works in Canada as well.
The CARFAX® Vehicle History Report™ also includes Safety & Reliability Ratings, Warranty Information and Consumer Ratings & Comments for a model you order the report.
• Check a used car history
• Research common problems
• What to take with you for a used car inspection
• Checking the car body
• Tires
• Check the vehicle manufacturer's label
• Interior
• Electrical features
• Heater and air-conditioner
• Signs of flood damage
• Engine
• Automatic Transmission
• Manual Transmission
• Test-drive
Imagine, you are shopping for a used car. You enter the dealership and see that nice-looking car. You love it from a first sight. Meanwhile, the salesperson hanging around and telling you that regular story that, the car was lady driven and the engine works like a clock, and this is only "Today special" - "We need to clean inventory!", and you are so lucky because they are selling it very cheap - "We even lose money on this deal!" and that you have to give a deposit right now or else you will regret about it for the rest of your life! - Sounds familiar so far?
You decided - "deal!" - shaking hands, you're happy, salesperson is happy. Finally, you got your new wheels.
Few weeks later you notice blue smoke when you're starting the car in the morning. Few months later you discover that there is no oil left in the engine and finally got your car towed to the garage. "The engine is gone - has to be rebuilt" they diagnose.
In fact it's quite common scenario.
This article will give you an idea an may help you to avoid such a troubles buying a used car.
However, it's always good idea to have the vehicle inspected by a specialist prior purchase. This is what I'd recommend to any used car buyer.
Automatic transmission
An automatic transmission becomes more reliable these days, but still it's a most-easy-to-break and very-expensive-to-fix part of the vehicle.
If heavily abused, the automatic transmission can be easily destroyed within just half an hour. For example, a friend of mine had burnt the automatic transmission up in 20 minutes when he was trying to free his shiny Audi from the snow in the next day after he bought it! It cost him about $2000 to rebuild it and after one year it broke down again.
Also, an automatic transmission is very sensitive to the transmission fluid quality and condition. Improper fluid type can damage the transmission. A person I know added a gear oil (oil for manual transmission) into the automatic transmission. Guess what, 30 minutes of driving was enough to kill the transmission.
Obviously, when buying a used car, the automatic transmission is one of the most important parts to check. In this article I described few signs that may indicate potential transmission problem in a used car. In addition, I strongly recommend to have the used car inspected by a mechanic before buying it, it will well worth it.
Odometer rollback and used car market
Even though it's illegal, odometer fraud continues to be a serious issue. According to 2002 NHTSA estimate, more than 450,000 vehicles are sold each year in US with false odometer readings. I personally have seen a number of vehicles with rolled back odometers. Not too long ago I came across the truck with very low mileage, sold at a small used car lot. Closer inspection showed many indications of excessive use. The history report revealed that the truck came from another state and its previously recorded mileage was in fact higher.Almost all modern cars come now with electronic digital odometers which was supposed to make the tampering with the mileage more difficult. It turns out however, that electronic odometers are even easier to roll back having a special software. So how can you actually find out if the odometer shows true reading or was it rolled back? Read on.
| Initially: Any "bad" records in a VIN history report? Any maintenance records, mileage proof? How many previous owners? Why do they sell a car - tired of fixing it? Any accidents, engine, transmission repair? Has the car passed last Emission Test? Start with exterior. Indications of possible problem: Are the exterior lines not straight? Ripples? Misaligned panels? Driver's door has free play in the hinges? Troubles to close? Are the gaps between panels too narrow (too wide) on one side of the car? Lots of rusty spots? Mismatched colors? Painting over spray? Any panel of the car seems to be repainted? Why? Accident? Corrosion? Trailer hinge? The car was using for towing? Indications of possible engine problem: Any oil or coolant leaks from the engine? Is the engine dirty or oily? Is the oil level low? Is the oil on the dipstick too dark? Any indication of poor quality repair work / lack of maintenance? (e.g. badly corroded battery terminals, very low oil level, etc.) Start the engine: Does it work unevenly? Any knocking, pinging, whistling? Any smoke? (slight water steam is OK) Any warning lights come on while the engine is running? "Check engine" light? Is the engine oil pressure too low at idle? Any hesitation on acceleration? Is the engine enough powerful? Does it look very dirty under the oil cap? Smell of the burnt oil under the hood? Possible automatic transmission problems: Any previous transmission repair? Was it rebuilt? Does the transmission fluid smell burnt? Is the tranny fluid on the dipstick too dark/dirty? Start the engine and try to switch from P to D and from P to R holding the brakes - Is the time between shifting and the moment the transmission kicks in too long? Any strong noises or jerks? During a test drive: Any delays or troubles shifting? Any shudder? Does the transmission slip or jerk harshly? The shifting seems to be delayed? Does the kick-down function work? | The manual transmission: Any leaks? Any noises while driving? Any troubles changing gears? Is the clutch slipping? Any trouble to shift into reverse? The suspension problems: Is any of shock absorbers leaking? Is any of the shock absorber boots broken? The steering has notable free play? Does the car bounces too much when you push one of the corners down? Tires have irregular wear? (alignment problem) Does the car sit level? During a driving test: Any knocking or creaking noises when driving over bumps? Does the car pull aside? Is the steering wheel out of center? Does the vehicle feel unstable on a freeway? Any humming or growling noise? The brakes. Possible problem: Is the brake fluid container leaky? Is the brake fluid level too low? Brake pedal goes down to the floor? Break pedal is too soft (spongy)? Too hard? Any brake fluid leaks under the car? Badly corroded brake lines? Brake rotors appear corroded? During the test drive. Any brake pedal or steering pulsation while braking? Does the vehicle pull aside while braking? Any grinding noise? Does the brake warning light or ABS light come on while driving? Tires: Any cracks, bruises? Tread appears low? Mismatched tires? Damaged rims? Vibration at high speed? Humming noise? (uneven tire wear?) The interior: Is the driver seat / steering wheel worn excessively? Dampness under the carpet or in the trunk? Does the Radio / CD / Tape work? Has the odometer any evidences of being tampered? Does the air conditioner provide really cold air? Are the power locks, windows, mirrors, sunroof, etc. working? Are the heater, rear window defogger working? Wind noise while driving? Any of warning lights come on while driving? Do you feel comfortable in driver's place? Seats, seat belts, mirrors, controls, steering, visibility? Spare tire, jack, wheel wrench? |
